Back in 2014, before the likes of Antep Kitchen, Olé Tapas Bar and the MK Biergarten, Akasaka opened its doors on an unassuming corner of Stratford Road and soon became Wolverton’s go-to restaurant for eating out. And happily, despite a scare with their landlords last year, they continue to maintain their standards. Whether you’re on a date, catching up with friends or taking your parents out for dinner to show how successfully you can adult, Akasaka has your back, offering up a selection of excellent Japanese and Korean dishes in an intimate setting.
Let’s start with their appetisers and let me tell you, from our extensive research, you could easily build an entire meal from these delicious small plates. You’ll find all the usual suspects here - edamame beans, miso soup, crispy fried gyozas - along with Japanese street food classics such as moreish takoyaki and sticky chicken yakitori (which Akasaka were doing way before and waaaay better than Wagamama’s and Yo! Sushi). We always struggle to narrow down our order when it comes to the appetisers, but the agedashi tofu (crispy fried tofu in a delicate soy broth) and the nasu dengaku (miso-glazed aubergine) almost always make the cut. The crispy coating of the tofu gives way to a silky-smooth interior, with the soy broth bringing much-needed savouriness to the party. Meanwhile, the aubergine is cooked to the point of collapse before being drenched with a gloriously sticky miso glaze and caramelised under a hot grill - the melt-in-the-mouth texture of the aubergine and its perfect balance of sweet and savoury is a total revelation.
If you haven’t overdone it on the appetisers, you can either follow them up with a selection of sushi, sashimi or sushi rolls, or a main from the grills, noodles and rice sections of the menu. The sushi rolls are generously filled and beautifully presented on rustic Japanese tableware, as are the bright slices of fresh sashimi - my favourite is the mackerel, though I save the ‘toro’ tuna belly for an indulgent treat. For the less pescatorially inclined, Akasaka’s other mains include crispy chicken and pumpkin katsu or fried pork tonkotso, alongside a variety of noodle dishes, all featuring bouncy al dente noodles and lick-the-plate-clean umami sauces. The classic Korean bibimbab is a lighter option, lifted by the fiery punch of gochujang.
Full disclosure, Akasaka opened around the time we moved to Wolverton so it will always be a special place to us. I do think it also played a part in putting Wolverton on the map for great independent restaurants, and it’s great to have seen it grow along with the town’s own food scene. With two further outlets in CMK and Northampton and home delivery available for takeaways, there’s no excuse not to give them a try.
Must-try: The aforementioned agedashi tofu and nasu dengaku, plus the spicy tuna rolls.